15 March 2013

Offally good chicken liver ragú

Most of us wolf down paté with nary a thought about its base constituents, yet opinions are instantly polarised when liver is presented for supper in its unadorned state. Thanks to the "eeugh" reaction that offal provokes, chicken livers are much maligned and rarely top most people's shopping lists.

Which is a real shame, for apart from being packed with goodness - replete with iron and vitamins - it is the sheer explosion of flavour that makes chicken livers a most rewarding meal.  Always try and buy organic - and don't worry about the additional cost as very little goes a long way.  Here's an excellent Italian ragú to accompany pappardelle, gnocchi or polenta...

For Italian chicken liver ragú, you will need:
Extra-virgin olive oil
170g pancetta, diced
2/3 cup shallots, slivered
A handful (10-12) of fresh sage leaves, torn
Approximately 1 lb chicken livers, picked over, trimmed, and chopped
4 tablespoons capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed, pressed dry on paper towels and coarsely chopped
4-5 salt-packed anchovy fillets, rinsed and chopped
1 glass red wine
Freshly milled black pepper
Salt to taste
1 bay leaf

Method:
  • Brown pancetta in 1-2 tbsp olive oil until it begins to brown. Add shallots and sage and a little more oil if necessary. Cook until shallots soften
  • Add capers, bay leaf and anchovies and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute more, until fragrant and anchovies begin to break up
  • Add livers and a little more olive oil if it looks too dry Continue to cook over medium low heat, stirring and breaking up livers until they've taken on a putty-like color
  • Add approximately 3/4 cup of the wine and season liberally with black pepper. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 10-15 minutes until the mixture has thickened slightly so as to coat a spoon Remember, this is still a sauce; it shouldn't be too dry
  • Add 2-3 tablespoons of tomato paste
  • Remove from heat and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes
  • Return to low heat, remove bay leaf and adjust seasoning and thickness with wine, salt and pepper

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